Thursday, September 24, 2009

While We're on the Subject of Squash . . .

. . . let's look at another way to fry it. 

I imagine that there are more squash recipes to be found in the Southeast than there are cooks in the region, and at least as many recipes for fried squash as there are cooks.  Squash just seems to be a popular food down here, except maybe among school-age kids.  Squash-hating may not be so prevalent among today's school children, but squash was almost universally disliked, and in some cases hated outright, by pupils in the Dougherty County, Georgia, public school system, of which I am a product.

Now personally, I do not remember a time when I didn't like squash.  When we had squash for lunch at school I was, as they say, in hog heaven.

Early on in my academic career, when the school cafeteria served squash, I'd have one or more schoolmates approach me with the intention of trading their squash for something on my tray that I didn't care for.  The problem with that was that there wasn't much I didn't like in the way of food, so there was usually nothing I was willing to swap for another helping of squash. I suppose I had inadvertently developed a reputation for liking squash, but since I liked everything else and usually declined to swap, this sort of propositioning became rather rare.  More often than not, though, I'd end up with an extra helping or two on days when squash was served.

There were always certain kids, you see, who couldn't stand the sight of the stuff, much less the idea of putting it in their mouths.  Such children called it names like squish in elementary school (and they waxed more and more descriptive, I'm here to tell you, as they advanced in grade level and their skills in the use of obscene and/or profane language improved).  Anyhow, I came to know who these people were, and on squash days, I'd stalk them.

My modus operandi was this:  I'd choose one particular squash-hater and schmooze them. Then, when it was time for lunch, I'd follow my intended victim to a table, sit down close to them, and start eating my lunch.  Then, just when lunch started to kick into high gear, I'd nonchalantly ask my victim, "Hey, you gonna eat your squish?"

I think it was probably the word squish, spoken with a tone and inflection intended to evoke unpleasant feelings in the listener, and timed for when the listener's mouth was full of food, that did the trick, but the why isn't important.  Regardless of the reason, it was the result that counted:  the squash-hater gladly parted with his or her portion of the abominable vegetable.  Yuk! take it and good riddance!  I believe they might have paid me to take their squash, if the thought had crossed their minds and they'd had the money.

Okay! okay!  Pardon my ruminations, but I couldn't help myself.  Remembering those days, so long ago now, always gives me a chuckle, and I do enjoy telling a story.  Now, to today's recipe.

Deep-Fried Squash

4 C fresh yellow squash at room temperature, quartered lengthwise, individual quarters then cut crosswise into 1-inch slices.
1 C all-purpose flour.
1 large egg.
Table salt.
Black pepper.
Vegetable oil (for deep-frying).
Onion powder (optional).

Beat the egg lightly with a fork to mix the white and yolk.

For each piece of the squash, do the following:

  • Dip into the egg. Coat thoroughly, then allow the excess egg to drain back into the egg container.
  • Season to taste with salt, black pepper, and onion powder (if you're using it).
  • Dredge lightly in the flour.

After confirming that there's suffficient oil in your deep fryer, and topping it up if there isn't, set the temperature to 350 degrees.

When the oil in the fryer reaches 350 degrees, carefully drop no more than a handful of the squash piece in the oil.  If it's more than a handful, the additional mass could reduce the temperature of the oil significantly.  This is not a good thing to have happen, because in order to cook in the lower-temperature oil, the food must remain in it for a longer time than normal.  The food can thus absorb more oil than usual, and it may become greasy.

Cook the squash until the flour breading is a light golden brown.  Cooking squash in a deep fryer doesn't take long, so be careful that you don't overcook it.

Remove food from deep fryer and drain.

Allow drained squash to cool, then serve immediately.


Breaded squash can also be cooked in a skillet, but you'll need to use 1/4-inch slices rather than 1-inch, and you'll need to cook the squash slices in batches of no more slices than cover the bottom of the pan. You'll need only enough vegetable to cover the bottom of the pan. Keep an eye on your squash by turning frequently.  Your food is done when it takes on the light golden-brown color, as described above.

Either way you fry it - deep or pan - you may want to substitute a seasoned for the table salt.  That little extra flavor might be all it takes to convert a young squash-hater, should it be your misfortune to have one running around your house, into an enthusiastic squash fanatic.

Happy cooking!